Petzl launched the brand new GRIGRI Neox immediately, and it appears similar to the dominant assisted-braking belay system so many climbers use and belief. Nevertheless, data from the French model reveals that though the acquainted type and cord locking cam are intact, the Neox has vital variations from the GRIGRI line.
How a GRIGRI Works
The present third-generation GRIGRI and GRIGRI + use a cam that engages attributable to elevated rope friction positioned on it by a falling or “taking” climber. The rope drags on the cam’s rounded lobe, which rotates it, and it pinches the rope to assist arrest the autumn. A spring retains the cam from rotating when there’s much less friction in low rope load eventualities.
However when a climber is main, rapidly paying out slack for clipping safety is a precedence. The higher friction of feeding rope rapidly is sufficient to lock the cam on a GRIGRI. To beat this, climbers be taught a selected approach prescribed by Petzl. It’s advanced however is a inconsiderate second nature to me.
The GRIGRI rests on the brake hand index finger on a lip designed for that goal, and the thumb holds the cam down. The brake strand of the rope nonetheless passes by way of the final three fingers of the brake hand. The non-brake hand can then pay out slack rapidly because the thumb retains the cam from pinching the rope.
Once more, this does appear difficult, however neither my climbing companions nor I’ve had to consider it for many years. Nevertheless, belayers can botch it throughout high-speed, high-stress conditions. This may result in short-roping the climber or probably failing in basic belaying approach. None of those is good, and at worst, might be hazardous within the already riskier state of affairs of getting slack out on lead.
How Is the Petzl Neox Completely different?
From the skin, the brand new Petzl Neox appears similar to a GRIGRI. Even flipping the duvet open can require a re-assessment to discern that the Neox certainly works in a different way. The Petzl Neox blocks the rope with a spring-loaded chrome steel cam in the identical relative location as a GRIGRI. However past that, the Neox’s working internals profit the method of rapidly paying out slack to a clipping (and probably determined) lead climber.
When belaying usually, a rotating wheel acts as a bearing to permit low-friction rope administration. The rope can transfer extra freely in each instructions than a GRIGRI, which solely has a rounded cam lobe. However when a climber falls or weights the rope, it pulls the interior wheel off its rotational axis, stopping its motion. This causes the spring-loaded cam to pivot and pinch the rope like a GRIGRI.
You will need to notice that rope friction engages the cam within the Petzl Neox. It’s not depending on the rotational pace of the interior wheel. That is how the Wild Nation Revo (which we reviewed) operates.
Essentially the most vital benefit of the Neox inside wheel is that the belayer can use “commonplace” hand strategies to pay out slack and handle the quantity of rope out to the chief. This guarantees faster rope payout for clipping, quicker slack retrieval afterward, and a a lot less complicated and acquainted belaying approach. And new customers gained’t must be taught the advanced approach required of the GRIGRI to belay a pacesetter.
Decreasing the climber is identical as a GRIGRI. The brake strand of the rope flips over a rounded edge on a facet plate, and the belayer nonetheless holds it under the system. The opposite hand opens a spring-loaded deal with, which releases the cam and controls the speed of descent. Nevertheless, the Neox doesn’t have the anti-panic function of the GRIGRI +. (If the belayer pulls the deal with previous a sure level, the cam is routinely prompts to cease the climber’s descent.)
The Neox continues to be usable for belaying on prime rope and rappelling a single line.
Why Not Name It a GRIGRI?
Once I first heard of the Petzl Neox, it befuddled me that Petzl didn’t adhere to the decades-long and dominant branding of the GRIGRI. Nevertheless, upon reviewing all of the supplies offered on the Neox, I now see the logic. Petzl needs to categorize its rising line of assisted-braking gadgets by climbers’ potential widespread utilization patterns
The brand new Neox sits on the “prime” of Petzl’s assisted-braking belay gadgets. Petzl launched the third-generation GRIGRI in 2019 and describes it as a great system for each top-rope and lead belaying. The GRIGRI + has a “lead” and “top-rope” setting and an anti-panic decreasing deal with. Petzl launched it in 2017 and claims it’s best for top-rope belaying. Lastly, Petzl states that the Neox is perfect for lead belaying.
Keep watch over GearJunkie; we anticipate our Petzl Neox pattern quickly and can publish a radical overview. MSRP for the Neox is $150.