Glacier Lodge Eqi, Greenland
Thunderous echoes of crashing ice ripple throughout the bay like a relentless refrain of nature’s beat.
Nothing can put together you for the sound of a glacier calving. It’s a clap, crack and deep rumble that rolls throughout the floor of the water, seemingly gathering pitch and pace. One of the best half, it’s a delayed sound so it’s worthwhile to actually focus and watch the glacier to truly catch a calving in motion. For those who look ahead to the sound you’ll at all times be 7-10 seconds too late resulting from how sound travels throughout the fjord.
Situated a 3.5hr ice breaker boat trip north of Ilulissat, Eqi Glacier is without doubt one of the world’s most lively and there’s little question a go to will embrace it’s justifiable share of tumbling ice reveals. Because the boat cruises via the Ataa Strait, teal colored water shares the scene with icebergs ranging in sizes from mega mansions via to dinner plates* (*not official measurements 😉). If an extended boat trip sounds boring, then you definately’ve been on board the improper boats. This one is endlessly fascinating. Each passing iceberg is exclusive in form, tone and sample making the journey a photographer’s buffet of potential photographs.
Earlier than arriving to Port Victor to disembark at Glacier Lodge Eqi, the boat spends roughly two hours bobbing about immediately in entrance of the glacier wall. With calvings occurring continuously, you possibly can {photograph} from the highest deck and watch in marvel because the true energy of nature turns into more and more evident. It’s not till the next day’s hike did I realise how small we actually have been on the boat, a tiny crimson speck amongst an unlimited sea of icebergs.
Dimension right here is definitely one thing that’s actually, REALLY exhausting to find out. What seems comparatively shut could also be 2km away and that is because of the panorama being so overwhelmingly expansive with virtually no level of reference for comparability. The boat is without doubt one of the solely comparisons you’ll see all through your keep on the lodge and as soon as it arrives the subsequent day you’ll abruptly really feel like an ant in a bizarrely huge world. However that’s getting too far forward…let’s get again to the beginning of the journey.
Because the boat pulls in to Port Victor, named after the French explorer Paul-Émile Victor who used the world as a base camp whereas researching the glacier greater than 100yrs in the past, we’re warned to get off rapidly. The specter of a tsunami brought on by massive calvings is ever current and the workforce at all times have somebody on wave watch till all visitors are above the security zone. Nothing like an adrenaline increase to kick begin a 3 day glamping expertise I’ll always remember.
Glacier Lodge Eqi is without doubt one of the closest locations you may get to feeling such as you’re on the finish of the world. There’s no roads, no retailers, no city, no wifi, no cellphone sign…simply someplace cosy to relaxation your head at evening and a world of alternatives to discover the fantastic thing about Greenland.
Company can select between one in all 4 luxurious cabins which have entry to working water and electrical energy, customary huts or the model new glamping tents, each of which don’t have working water or electrical energy however share lavatory and bathe amenities. Whereas the bathroom could also be a brief hike away from the hut or tent, it signifies that each time you go it’s a mini journey. It’s like roughing it with out the organising half, oh and, you’ve obtained skilled guides, cozy bedding, blankets, personal decks and a really gifted chef…so not too tough!
Having glamped earlier than within the tropical paradise of the Cook dinner Islands, I used to be wanting to sleep in the identical circumstances on the opposite aspect of the world, contrasting climates and environment. World of Greenland had solely simply arrange the tents previous to my keep and as one of many first visitors, I couldn’t have been extra impressed. Wandering down the wood ramp towards Tent C and up the steps to my personal balcony (aka viewing deck to among the finest reveals on this planet), I did a cheerful dance…as a lot as I might muster whereas carrying my digicam bag and tote for the journey.
Opening the door to the tent revealed an area that might’ve made any explorer’s job a lot simpler, the truth is, with my tent wanting onto the unique hut used a long time in the past, I’ve obtained nothing however the utmost respect for his or her efforts on this harsh atmosphere. Fitted out with pure tones and delicate textures, the room is extra boutique resort than tent. Blankets, rugs, pillows plus area to hold your garments, a desk and even a gasoline heater for when it will get a bit of chilly.
With the lodge solely accessible in the summertime months, there’s an excellent probability a keep right here will coincide with the midnight solar. We’ve all had these sleepless nights the place your thoughts is stressed and telling you to remain awake with ideas…the midnight solar has an identical impact however it’s weirdly calming and invigorating. Rugged up and enjoyable on the balcony, I stayed up nicely previous midnight to sit down and hearken to the glacier calving because the solar ventured towards the horizon, barely touching it earlier than beginning to rise once more.
One factor to say, when sleeping within the tents there’s little sound proofing. For me, this was complete bliss as a result of it meant I might lie in mattress and hearken to the sound of the glacier because it calved all through the evening. On my first evening I used to be leaping away from bed each couple of minutes in an try to see what seemed like the largest calving ever, however alas, the pace of sound meant I used to be tricked every time haha. For those who’re delicate to sounds at evening I’d recommend bringing ear plugs although!
For photographers there’s no finish to that heat, photogenic mild because it modifications the landscapes earlier than your eyes. Photographing the glacier is like capturing a special topic at each look. Out of your hut or tent you should use a zoom lens just like the Olympus 300mm f4 to {photograph} the patterns and calvings, or, if you wish to get a bit of nearer, there’s a guided hike included in your keep.
Setting off after breakfast, the hike takes roughly 4-5hrs and traverses alongside the coast, over a waterfall and as much as one significantly breathtaking view simply 800m from the glacier. It’s not notably strenuous however does require a steep ascent in direction of the top and a few minor obstacles alongside the best way….each completely well worth the effort.
With packed lunches and snacks, you’re then in a position to sit and take in the sounds, sights and feeling of someplace so environmentally vital. These staying two nights on the lodge can choose to remain behind a bit of longer and hike again on their very own, one thing I in a short time put my hand as much as do as a result of there’s one thing so magnetising about watching a glacier calve.
Staying a bit of longer additionally leads to the comparability I discussed earlier. At roughly 11:30am you’ll get an opportunity to identify the boat because it arrives up the ice fjord. Our information joked that it’s fairly a enjoyable recreation to seek out it and it’s not till you truly see the boat dwarfed within the distance by icebergs that you simply realise how really minute it’s amongst the surroundings.
Fast Ideas –
– If staying within the huts or tents with out energy, you’re welcome to make use of the ability retailers in Café Victor to cost your cameras/telephones.
– Take solely a small bag together with your digicam gear and belongings for the keep. From the boat there’s a bit of uphill hike over the rocks and in case you’ve obtained something bigger than a backpack it’ll be a wrestle. You’ll be able to retailer your baggage on the World of Greenland in Ilulissat workplace earlier than departure.
– Be ready with numerous layers because the climate can change rapidly. Within the arctic I at all times recommend having thermals, a fleece layer, thicker jacket + windproof layer. A beanie, neck warming fleece (my saviour on arctic journeys!), gloves and unusually sufficient…additionally layers like a t-shirt as a result of it may be fairly heat within the solar if there’s no wind. Additionally sun shades as a result of that solar doesn’t set!
– Don’t fear about meals, you’re supplied with scrumptious meals throughout your keep and may alert the workforce to any allergy symptoms or dietary necessities earlier than arrival! For those who’re a little bit of a late evening snacker like me, then take a deal with or two to nibble when you’re watching the glacier out of your balcony. Drinks and snacks can be found to buy from Café Victor.
– When on the boat, don’t neglect to move to the higher deck for excellent views on the journey up and again from Eqi Glacier.
Advisable Digital camera Gear –
As a result of the glacier is roughly 2-3km from the lodge, I extremely advocate having a top quality zoom lens in your bag. I took the next with me and managed to make use of each single lens since you’ve obtained loads of time to check out numerous vantage factors and angles.
Olympus E-M1X + E-M1 MKII
– M.Zuiko 300mm f4 – nice for capturing nearer particulars of the glacier and calvings from the camp
– M.Zuiko 40-150mm f2.8 – good whereas mountain climbing to make use of as the first zoom lens resulting from it’s versatility.
– M.Zuiko 12-40mm f2.8 – whereas I didn’t use this one as a lot, it was nice to have whereas mountain climbing to seize the surroundings and likewise to {photograph} your entire view from my tent.
– M.Zuiko 7-14mm f2.8 – I used this to {photograph} the midnight solar stars above my tent and likewise whereas wandering round camp to showcase the scene.
– DJI Mavic Air Drone – I’ll admit, I’m a complete wuss relating to flying my drone and like when there’s nobody round or nothing too shut. This made Eqi the perfect place to fly, nevertheless, because of the lack of satellite tv for pc sign and magnetic pull of the glacier, it’s fairly harmful as there’s a excessive probability your drone may fly north and by no means return.
This in thoughts, I used the drone from my tent and flew immediately above the camp to seize an general picture of the world. I additionally took the drone on a brief hike to seize some aerials of the icebergs…I didn’t fly it over the glacier after listening to what number of drones had been misplaced up there. Whereas flying, my drone misplaced contact just a few occasions and I wasn’t ever additional than 100m away displaying simply how little sign there may be up there! So fly at your individual threat 😊
As with all visible critiques, I’ll let the photographs do the speaking so please see a set of pictures from my keep under…
To learn extra in regards to the expertise or guide your individual, go to worldofgreenland.com
Good day! I’m the founder and photographer behind The Wandering Lens.
With 17+yrs expertise as knowledgeable journey and panorama photographer, all recommendation discovered on this website is from my private expertise on the street. I hope it’s helpful in your personal travels and would love to listen to within the feedback about your journeys and experiences all over the world.