Contained in the Caribbean’s Solely ‘Palace’ Lodge

As I rounded a rocky promontory, a picture-perfect cove appeared, full with golden seashore and a lone white sailboat bobbing within the distance. However my eye was drawn to the angular construction on the hillside above the water, the one small interruption to an in any other case pristine Caribbean tableau.

Within the Fifties, David Rockefeller determined to construct a trip dwelling on just a little island between St. Martin and St. Kitts. Rather a lot has modified for the reason that completion of this modernist villa above the secluded Anse de Colombier, one of many first tourism-related developments on St. Barts: The island of about 11,000 residents now sees nearly 20 instances that in guests yearly, with dozens of resorts over simply eight sq. miles of land space. However the property across the Rockefeller villa, protected (no less than for now) from improvement, stays practically untouched, save for a stone staircase main all the way down to the golden seashore. Colombier is reachable solely by foot or by water, offering a small slice of a quieter time — earlier than seashore golf equipment, earlier than megayachts, and earlier than vacationers like me.

Some reminiscence of that quieter time was additionally discernible at my resort, an roughly 30-minute stroll away. A lot of the prime resorts on St. Barts are situated on or close to Baie de St. Jean, one of many island’s social hubs, or Grand Cul-de-Sac on its jap finish — however Cheval Blanc St-Barth is about on Plage des Flamands, on the island’s northwestern tip. First opened in 2014, Cheval Blanc ultimately bought and absorbed a neighboring resort referred to as Taïwana as a part of a 2019 renovation, that means it’s now the only resort on this explicit seashore, surrounded solely by scattered properties, forested hills, and water.

Cheval Blanc is an ultra-luxury resort, to be clear: The Cheval Blanc group, which has 5 different areas throughout France, the Seychelles, and the Maldives, is owned by the posh conglomerate LVMH. Its property on St. Barts is the Caribbean’s solely “Palace,” a designation created by the French authorities to honor the nation’s most beautiful, unique locations to remain. The property, which has hosted the likes of Beyoncé and Jay-Z, has an ultra-wealthy clientele who appreciates its location and discreetness.

However there’s one thing fairly easy in regards to the place, in a extremely intentional form of means. Non-public-feeling whitewashed buildings are linked by wood boardwalks winding by dense tropical gardens. Interiors by French designer Jacques Grange are relaxed and refreshing, the cream-and-beige palette accented by printed pillows and rattan. I did most of my washing up beneath the palms in my breezy out of doors bathe, the place at evening I used to be serenaded (and a few times, joined)  by the small “whistling” tree frogs discovered in lots of components of the Caribbean.

Being so near the island wildlife that I might contact it if I wished — being in a spot the place it appeared, no less than, that part of the island had been left to talk for itself — felt like a luxurious. It’s a journey cliché at this level, however it’s true. And judging by Cheval Blanc’s persistently excessive occupancy, many agree it’s value paying for.

Right here’s what else you want to learn about Cheval Blanc St-Barth.

The Rooms

I stayed in a Seaside Suite, the most well-liked class at this 61-key resort for causes that grow to be apparent when you throw open the sliding doorways to your personal terrace overlooking the seashore. That terrace additionally has an infinity plunge pool, the place I spent each night watching the solar setting over the rocky hills. Inside, there’s an ethereal front room, a small eating space, a bed room with a king mattress, and a beneficiant closet and toilet (with a tub and each indoor and out of doors showers). Two-bedroom Seaside Suites are additionally out there.

The entire 14 room classes, half of that are suites, embody some type of personal balcony or out of doors space, and a few include 24-hour butler service. Essentially the most fundamental are the Tropical Rooms; there are additionally one- and two-bedroom Tropical Suites; one- and two-bedroom Backyard Suites, all with personal swimming pools; and Backyard Bungalows that may be linked to accommodate as much as six. Whereas solely the Seaside Suites (and some particular villas) are situated instantly on Plage des Flamands, ocean views can be discovered within the Ocean class, with single rooms and one- to two-bedroom suites situated a bit uphill from the seashore and accessed by stairs. The property additionally has varied stand-alone lodging, the most important of which is the Villa de France, with 5 bedrooms throughout two flooring.

Meals and Drink

Cheval Blanc’s two eating places are headed up by French chef Jean Imbert, whose Jean Imbert au Plaza Athénée in Paris at the moment has a Michelin star. The beachier of the 2 is La Cabane, the place you’ll be able to have lunch on a wood terrace or instantly on the sand; the menu consists of loads of native fish, together with some Caribbean preparations like fish fritters and a ceviche of wahoo, plus attention-grabbing salads, pastas, and meat and seafood from the grill. Imbert’s cheffier tendencies are given extra room at La Case, the place, for dinner, I had the oeuf-surprise — a lobster-stuffed avocado coated with a trompe l’oeil black-sesame-vegetable-ash “pores and skin” — and hen cooked inside a crust of cocoa-nib-flecked brioche.

Room service can be out there, and you may prepare personal eating experiences like customized picnics or a barbecue on the seashore. This being a French resort model on a French island, there’s additionally a knockout boulangerie/patisserie within the type of Le Kiosque, which makes baguettes, croissants, and lots of extra breads and pastries on website each day. There’s no bodily location, however you’ll be able to order on-line every time the craving strikes.

Actions and Facilities

Along with the seashore setup — which features a seashore chair out there all day for each visitor — Cheval Blanc St-Barth has two swimming pools, one situated close to every restaurant. There is a small fitness center and a pavilion for yoga, Pilates, and out of doors spa remedies. Two boutiques inventory attire, swimwear, and equipment, together with some from native jewellery makers. And the latest house at Cheval Blanc is the just-renovated spa — extra on that beneath.

Excursions on provide embody guided hikes (just like the one I took to Colombier) and Le Grand Bleu expertise, an all-day boat journey with snorkeling, seashore time, and a Champagne picnic on board. However the concierges can prepare practically something, whether or not on property or off. This might embody a private coaching session on the seashore, for instance, or one thing additional afield, like a ship outing to close by St. Martin. These touring with children will discover loads of family-oriented choices, like artwork or browsing courses, and the staff may guide a babysitter as wanted.

The Spa

When Cheval Blanc reopened for the season in late October 2024, it additionally debuted its newly renovated Cheval Blanc Spa, with contemporary interiors by French architect Isabelle Stanislas. The Guerlain remedies embody new choices just like the “Sweetness of the Antilles,” throughout which my arms and toes had been handled with a vanilla-scented scrub earlier than a calming therapeutic massage with heated shells rather than sizzling stones. There are additionally extra medi-spa-type remedies — I did a micro peel and cryo facial that left my face sculpted and glowing all day — and the spa beds had been, with out exaggeration, essentially the most comfy I’ve skilled.

The spa has 4 single therapy rooms and one for {couples}. The ready space additionally doubles as a Guerlain showroom and boutique, with a wall of fragrances that an attendant will enable you mix based mostly in your preferences. There’s even a devoted Guerlain perfume for the property, as with all Cheval Blanc areas.

Accessibility and Sustainability

Cheval Blanc St-Barth is ready to accommodate company with disabilities, who can get in contact with the staff instantly to debate their explicit wants and determine which room classes and experiences are one of the best match.

There are 80 photo voltaic panels on property, which energy thermodynamic water heaters to supply about half of its sizzling water. A solar-powered desalination unit, at the moment beneath improvement, would (when accomplished) meet the property’s each day water wants. The resort has additionally eradicated single-use plastics from the visitor rooms and eating places.

Location

The retailers and eating places of the small capital, Gustavia, are only a 10-minute drive from Cheval Blanc, and you may get to the airport in St. Jean in roughly half that. However the entire island is just round eight sq. miles, that means nothing will take greater than about 25 minutes to succeed in.

Attending to St. Barts is a little bit of a manufacturing, as there aren’t any direct flights from the U.S. and, as a result of the airport’s runway is famously brief, solely very small planes can land there. On a earlier journey, I’d transited by St. Martin (SXM); flights from SXM are frequent and take about 10 minutes. However I a lot most well-liked the route I took this time round, flying by way of San Juan (SJU) and transferring to a scheduled Tradewind Aviation flight for the hourlong connection to St. Barts. U.S. vacationers will discover extra nonstops to SJU out there from extra cities, and although Tradewind will be dearer than the opposite small airways within the area, with that comes just a little extra consolation, like a devoted passenger lounge at SJU.