The Scandinavian phrase ‘hygge’, the idea of cosying up and getting snug at residence, has change into fairly well-known globally over the previous few years. The Norwegians have the phrase ‘friluftsliv’, which is the philosophy of embracing out of doors actions and immersing your self in nature. The place higher place to do that than within the fjordlands. Whether or not visiting picturesque cities, on a ship cruise on a fjord, driving, climbing or snowboarding within the gorgeous Sunnmore Alps, this a part of Norway has a number of the most spectacular surroundings in Scandinavia.
The ferry slices by way of the glassy waters of the fjord. Towering rock partitions stretched spectacularly above us. Deserted farmhouses cling to the cliff faces, and slender waterfalls cascade down to satisfy the tranquil floor of the fjord. We’re within the coronary heart of the Geirangerfjord, a UNESCO World Heritage web site, a spot of breathtaking pure magnificence and a sapphire-coloured jewel in Norway’s western fjords.
Disembarking the ferry within the tiny city of Geiranger, we climb the 327 steps, on a walkway that criss-crosses the underside of Storsæterfossen waterfall, to our lodge, the very grand Lodge Union. The lodge is the place Norway’s Princess Märtha Louise is quickly to tie the knot with American self-styled shaman Durek Verrett. Renovations for the marriage are underway, so, apart from the builder, we just about have the place to ourselves, whereas getting a style of what the upcoming personal marriage ceremony ceremony and following days of celebrations shall be like.
With a day journey on the fjord in a RIB (Inflexible Inflatable Boat) deliberate for the afternoon we head from the lodge, right down to an previous boathouse on the sting of the water. Sporting insulated dry-suits, we clamber aboard the boat. Heading out we zip, zoom and zigzag throughout the water. The air is cool, crisp and recent. The rugged cliffs tower above us because the boat navigates high-speed twists and turns. I don’t suppose I’ve ever embraced an out of doors exercise, or my seat, any tighter! That is undoubtedly the quickest solution to see the fjord.
We cruise deep into the center of the fjord. The captain cuts the engine. The silence is sudden, solely interrupted by the eerie cry of an eagle and the distant rumble of waterfalls cascading down the mountainsides. It feels as if we’re in a nature documentary, besides that relatively than watching it on the Discovery Channel, we’re proper in the midst of all of it. We search for the seals and porpoises that always name these waters residence and take into consideration the cruel lives lived by the individuals who’d as soon as eked out a residing on the deserted farmhouses on the cliffs above us.
Two hours from Geiranger and the following cease on our travels, Ålesund may have been taken straight from the pages of a fairy story. A disastrous hearth in 1904 had left a lot of the city in ashes, however rebuilt, Ålesund not solely has the world’s best focus of Artwork Nouveau buildings, however is located proper between the ocean, the islands and Norway’s greatest fjords, making it the proper base for exploring this gorgeous a part of the world.
We lace up our strolling footwear and hit Ålesund’s cobblestoned streets. After a brief go to to the Artwork Nouveau Centre & Artwork Museum KUBE, to be taught extra concerning the city, its historical past and its structure, we climb the 418 steps to the Mt Aksla viewpoint. Braving the sturdy winds, we glance out on the panoramic views of town. Subsequent on our agenda is the Atlanterhavsparken, Northern Europe’s largest saltwater aquarium and marine science centre. We arrive simply in time for the every day seal feeding and are completely charmed and entertained by each the seals and their keeper – who knew seals had such amusing personalities?
Ålesund is usually known as ‘the Venice of Norway’, due to its canals and slender streets. The following morning, we resolve to spend a while on a guided kayaking tour of the gorgeous Brosundet canal, which snakes by way of the centre of city. The colors and shapes of buildings lining the canal are mirrored on the floor of the water, and the odor of espresso drifts tantalisingly out over the water from the small bussing cafes that line the waterfront.
Passing beneath the low bridges that span the canal we are able to hear the chatter of individuals crossing above us. Reaching one finish of the canal, we go beneath a bridge and come out close to the cruise boat terminal. We will see the cruise ships and passenger ferries extra
d, prepared and ready to depart. On the different finish of the canal, we go the tiny purple Molja Lighthouse, which has stood right here, guiding ships into the harbour for over a century and a half.
Ålesund is residence to Norway’s most necessary fishing harbour, so seafood is certainly on the menu. On our solution to lunch we pay a go to to one of many fishermen, in his vibrant yellow waterproof overalls, who sells his catch instantly from his boat within the canal. We admire his prawns, cod and salmon, however having nowhere to cook dinner it ourselves, we stock on to the discover ourselves a restaurant.
Leaving Ålesund behind, we head out of city. Travelling the winding roads we drive into the Norwegian backcountry, passing by way of a number of the most dramatic landscapes conceivable. Nordfjord is our subsequent vacation spot – located between Norway’s wild coast and the Jostedalsbreen glacier, the biggest in Europe. At Loen, Nordfjord’s most inland village, we resolve to attempt our hand at snowshoeing and sledding. The Skylift whisks us from the fjord’s edge to the highest of Mt Hoven in minutes. As soon as on the high it’s evident that my snow abilities are considerably missing! Thankfully, the panoramic views over the fjord under greater than make up for it. Retiring for lunch within the restaurant, perched on the sting of the snow lined cliffs, it seems like we’re eating in a scene out of a James Bond film.
After an evening within the beautiful Lodge Alexandra, we resolve some snowboarding is on the playing cards. If you’re into snowboarding, then the Norwegian fjords are the place to be and whereas Norway may not be in your radar for ski resorts simply but, there are many them and snowboarding right here is extra inexpensive than snowboarding within the Swiss or French Alps – insiders contemplate the Norwegian Alps the most effective locations on the earth to ski.
We journey to the close by Strandafjellet ski resort, within the beautiful Sunnmøre Alps, with its seven ski lifts, 18 downhills and what could also be Scandinavia’s greatest free-skiing space. Ready for the gondola, skiers of varied ages, however plain abilities, zoom down the slopes in the direction of me, carving by way of the snow with ease, their skis chopping recent tracks into the snow. I’m feeling intimidated and by the point I disembark from the gondola and met my information, I’m really fairly glad to see he has snow footwear and never skis ready for me. It has rained the evening earlier than, and the slopes have been too icy for somebody like me, who hadn’t skied correctly for years. Higher protected than sorry. Leaving the downhill slopes to the skilful, trendy skiers, I waddle off in my shoe footwear, wanting a bit like a decided penguin.
After an hour or so of trudging about, we attain a line of vibrant purple deck chairs within the snow. It’s the proper spot to take a seat and look out over the brilliant blue fjord far, far under, and with a heat solbærtoddy (blackcurrant tea) in my hand, I resolve I’ll have to come back again and take a look at the snowboarding one other time. The realm is standard with climbing fans too, which is one thing I’m significantly better at, so I feel maybe I’ll return in the summertime and go to a number of the trails as an alternative.
For me Norway’s western fjordlands have been the proper mix of pure magnificence and superb out of doors adventures. From the serene, misty waters of the Geirangerfjord, to the ski slopes of Sunnmøre Alps or the canals of the charming Artwork Nouveau city of Ålesund, this a part of the world is certainly all about embracing out of doors life – friluftsliv!
Sarah Kingdom
Born and raised in Sydney, Australia, earlier than transferring to Africa on the age of 21, Sarah Kingdom is a mountain climber and information, journey author, yoga trainer, path runner, and mom of two. When she is just not climbing or touring she lives on a cattle ranch in central Zambia. She guides journeys recurrently in India, Nepal, Tibet, Russia, and Ethiopia, and takes climbers up Tanzania’s Mount Kilimanjaro quite a few occasions a 12 months.
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