Boat rides to hidden coves, sunbathing under a colourful umbrella at a glamorous seaside membership, sipping Aperol spritzes at sundown, twirling spaghetti with clams as you gaze out on the Mediterranean — these are only a few of the dreamy issues you are able to do on the Amalfi Coast and the island of Capri, which is lower than an hour away by boat. And although the coast will get its title from the town of Amalfi — as soon as the seat of a strong maritime republic — there’s no city that symbolizes this fabled stretch of coast extra acutely than Positano. On the subject of glitz, glamour, and views, it’s onerous to beat Positano and Capri.
The primary time I laid eyes on Positano, with its majolica-tiled church dome and pastel buildings clinging to the cliffs that stand up from a tranquil bay, I laughed out loud at how absurdly stunning it appeared. Once I lastly visited Capri, it too wowed me — and I’m removed from the island’s solely fan. It has been a haven for wealthy and well-known guests because the days of the Roman Empire, when Tiberius constructed a pleasure palace and ditched Rome for the island. So when you’re making an attempt to plan a visit to the world, the place do you have to base your self, and the way do you have to spend your time? I consulted native knowledgeable Holly Star, who, collectively together with her husband Gianluca D’Esposito, runs Giardino di Capri, which provides cooking courses and different meals experiences on the island.
Right here’s what it’s best to think about when selecting between Positano and Capri.
Ambiance
Positano and Capri are about 15 nautical miles aside, so in some methods they really feel fairly related. Each are characterised by dramatic mountains that stand up out of the ocean. The structure is analogous and so are the native crops, which embrace jasmine and bougainvillea. With its centuries-long historical past as a vacation spot for the elite, Capri feels a bit extra upscale and glamorous, with designer boutiques and the individuals who store at them. Positano nonetheless feels a bit extra laid-back. Through the excessive season, each are likely to get extraordinarily crowded.
“Sure, there is a loopy quantity of day-trippers, however there’s all the time a spot to go on the island the place you may really feel just like the island is yours,” says Star, who notes that Capri is bigger than Positano and really includes two cities: Capri (the primary city has the identical title because the island) and Anacapri, which tends to be much less crowded. “It is only a matter of figuring out the place to go, timing your itinerary, and having an adventurous spirit.”
Price
Every little thing is relative, however costs throughout the Amalfi Coast and on Capri — for every little thing from meals and drinks to lodging and taxis — are excessive in comparison with many different Italian locations. On considered one of my journeys to the island, I used to be charged €3 for a cappuccino on the counter of a café on the Piazzetta (Capri’s important sq.), whereas virtually in all places else in Italy that very same cappuccino would price €1-1.50. And on my most up-to-date journey to Positano, I paid €10 for a sorbetto al limone eaten on the counter of a café just a few blocks from the seaside. In different phrases, neither vacation spot is a cut price. That stated, it’s not unattainable to stay to a price range.
“It is a false impression that Capri is that this luxurious, very costly Island,” says Star. “We do must depend on numerous issues from the mainland, which does come at an additional price. Nonetheless, that does not imply that there aren’t locations which are inexpensive. There are luxurious inns, there are inexpensive inns, and there is every little thing in between.”
Issues to Do
Whether or not you propose to remain in Positano or Capri, it’s best to undoubtedly spend a while on (and in) the water. A ship journey is without doubt one of the greatest issues to do, because it offers you an opportunity to absorb the panorama, discover hidden coves, and swim within the sea. Throughout a ship journey organized by Imago Artis Journey, my husband and I admired Capri’s lighthouse, Villa Malaparte, and handed by the Blue Grotto earlier than diving into the ocean by a less-crowded grotto.
Each Positano and Capri have historic websites value visiting as nicely. In Positano, a guided tour of the Museo Archeologico Romano, which opened in 2018, is a should. The go to brings you to an extremely well-preserved Roman villa with unbelievably vibrant frescoes hidden below the primary church of Santa Maria Assunta. In Capri, you may go to the tranquil Gardens of Augustus, the ruins of Villa Jovis constructed by Tiberius, and the newer Villa San Michele, as soon as the house of Swedish physician Axel Munthe, which has stunning gardens with breathtaking views.
Energetic vacationers who need to spend time immersed in nature will discover nice mountain climbing trails, too. Positano is the endpoint for the Path of the Gods, a seven-kilometer (4.3-mile) mountain climbing path excessive up within the mountains from Agerola to Positano, which is thought for its panoramic vistas. In Capri, you may hike from Punta Tragara, which has unbelievable views of the Faraglioni, a set of sea stacks jutting up out of the water, all the way down to the primary port of Marina Grande, or comply with the winding By way of Krupp from the Gardens of Augustus all the way down to Marina Piccola, amongst different trails.
Seashores
Each Positano and Capri have seaside golf equipment the place you may lease lounge chairs and umbrellas for the day, in addition to some stretches of free seaside the place you may lay your towel on the sand with out paying a price. A few of the extra glamorous seaside golf equipment are related to inns, so whereas their eating places are open to the general public, their lounge chairs and umbrellas are solely for lodge friends. Others, like famed membership La Fontelina, are likely to e book up earlier than the season even begins.
Simply understand that when you dream of enjoyable on a sandy seaside, then Capri isn’t best for you. “An important factor to notice: there are pebble seashores, however then up in Anacapari and in addition in Marina Piccola below the Faraglioni, there are rock platforms, so that you’re diving straight into the ocean,” says Star. In Positano, there are sandy seashores at Spiaggia Grande (the primary seaside) and Fornillo Seashore, which locals want. When you plan to scout out some house on the free seashores in both vacation spot, you should definitely get there early.
Accommodations
On the subject of inns on this a part of Italy, every property is extra fabulous than the final. One of the vital legendary properties not simply on the Amalfi Coast however in your complete nation is Le Sirenuse in Positano. A member of the Main Accommodations of the World, this family-run lodge mixes hand-painted tiles and household heirlooms with modern artwork. Right here you may savor breakfast, the place the ample buffet is ready up seemingly straight above the dome of Santa Maria Assunta, swim within the pool, which options an artwork set up by Swiss artist Nicholas Get together, and sip spritzes on the glamorous Franco’s Bar.
And there are a handful of different fabulous inns in Positano, together with Il San Pietro di Positano (a 2024 World’s Finest Awards winner), Villa Treville, Lodge Villa Franca, and Lodge Poseidon.
In Capri, in the meantime, you’re spoiled for selection. The buzziest new property is Lodge La Palma, a member of the celebrated Oetker Assortment, which was featured on our 2024 It Record. There are old-school stalwarts just like the Quisisana, intimate boutique inns like Capri Tiberio Palace and J.Ok. Place Capri, and every little thing in between. Star’s favourite luxurious five-star lodge on the island is the Caesar Augustus. “It’s form of the place the place you are in between the sky and the ocean. The views are simply so spectacular,” she says. “Typically after I’ve been there, it has been like a dream, like after I’m that view and I simply can’t imagine how lucky I’m to be right here.”
Getting There and Getting Round
Whether or not you propose to remain in Positano or Capri, you’ll more than likely transit by means of Naples. Worldwide flights arrive on the Naples Capodichino Airport, which is the closest airport to the Amalfi Coast and Capri. Alternatively, you would fly to Rome and take the prepare to Naples.
From Naples, you’ve just a few choices for how one can get to Positano. You may take a personal boat or ferry, which might take an hour or two (you might need to attach with a unique ferry in Amalfi), you would take a automobile switch (greatest organized by means of your lodge) or a taxi, or you would take a mixture of trains and buses to succeed in Positano, which is the least costly (however most onerous) technique to get there.
To get to Capri, you’ll must take a ship. There are public ferries and quick hydrofoils departing from Molo Beverello, the ferry dock in Naples. The hydrofoil takes about an hour and prices round €30 every method.
When you arrive, each Positano and Capri are pretty walkable, with many pedestrian-only streets. Remember, nonetheless, that each locations — however particularly Positano — could also be difficult for folks with restricted mobility, as there are many stairs and steep hills to climb. There are taxis and buses obtainable to move passengers across the space. Within the excessive season, there are additionally ferries that may carry you straight from Positano to Capri.
Itinerary Concepts
“One of many issues that I feel is such an enormous false impression is that Capri is a day journey,” says Star. “There’s simply too many issues to see right here. And the factor is, it is an island. So if you journey to an island, you need to perceive island time, island rhythm, and that actually is not speeding round and seeing every little thing in a really quick timeframe.” Star recommends staying not less than three or 4 nights on the island.
She doesn’t think about Positano a day-tripping vacation spot both, noting, “They each deserve time to have the ability to recognize their magnificence.”
Having visited each locations a number of instances, I’ve to agree. Each Positano and Capri are value spending just a few days in.